Willy's Smokehouse

As you're passing Kanan on the 101, if the wind is blowing in the right direction you'll smell the delicious woodsmoked barbecue cooking at Willy's Smokehouse Bar and Grill.

This cozy family oriented barbecue restaurant, with its raised booths that wrap around the restaurant and its rich warm colors, is on Roadside Drive and is completely different than the old tenant, Agoura Valley Inn. Willy's is named after the late Willy Harris, who gained fame as a barbecue chef at his own restaurant in Tacoma, Wash.

Willy's menu is similar to all the local barbecue restaurants in the area, but what sets it apart is the fabulous traditional brisket of beef with a great smoky flavor that will melt in your mouth.

Start with the Louisiana hot links sausage as an appetizer; it's really good, but I wish they hadn't cut the sausage up into little pieces. The barbecued half chicken was cooked perfectly and fell off the bone, and the pulled pork and baby back ribs are very tender. Wally's offers several steaks- rib-eye, New York, tritip- as well as Atlantic salmon and a rich and garlicky shrimp scampi.

Sides offered are barbecued beans, coleslaw, fries or mashed potatoes. Willy's makes some nice salads- barbecue chopped, Chinese chicken and seared ahi- as well as several wraps.

The barbecued brisket sandwich was very good, but a better bun could have made this a great sandwich. Willy's offers three types of barbecue sauce- regular, spicy and turbo- good, but all could use a little more punch.

Service is very casual, quick and neighborhood-friendly. Willy's has a full bar and a limited wine list.

Prices for lunch from $8 to $15 and dinner entrees from $14 to $25. Willy's is a great place for a good, quick and flavorful lunch or dinner.

Willy's Smokehouse Bar and Grill is at 28435 Roadside Drive, Agoura Hills, (818) 9917227. Open for lunch (weekdays) and dinner from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday; 4 to 10 p.m. Saturday, and 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Marty Bee is a pseudonym for The Acorn's restaurant reviewer. To preserve the objectivity of Mr. Bee's work, his appearance at each restaurant is kept a secret. He could be at a table next to yours. To read past reviews or make recommendations, go to www.martybee.com.